Dispatches From Paul

Dispatch 1: 3-25-08

Germany is very strange. Very aggressive drivers here.

People do not smile, more of a scowl.

It's been very cold since Sunday (March 22), but it warmed up today. It's supposed to get warmer over the next few days.

So far, though, the riding has been good.

Dispatch 2: 4-6-08

We are now three weeks into the trip.

This isn't exactly what I meant by regular dispatches but I am trying.

The weather got really cold over Easter and the beginning of Easter week. It was down into the twenties, barely getting over thirty while riding.

Throw in a few snow showers and now its wet and cold.

Had to buy a pair of waterproof, insulated gloves. That made a huge difference. The rest of the gear and bike is holding up OK.

Did replace the rear brake pads.

We crossed the border into Austria on a bike path next to the Danube. This European Union stuff makes for some boring border crossings.

The Danube begins in the town of Donaueschingen. We will pretty much follow the river for the next 2800 kilometers all the way to the Black Sea.Ý

In fact, much of the route into Vienna was on paths right along the river. Woods, mountains, pine trees, barges, and small towns on the river made for some very relaxing cycling.

The Germans and the Austrians seem to be very uptight and do not smile very much.

Our first day off was in Vienna. Beautiful city with exquisite architecture and enough museums to last at least a month. I had real wienerschnitzel, the way its supposed to be done.

People seemed to loosen up as we crossed the border into Hungary. The area seemed not to be as economically developed as Germany and Austria.

However, the people were much more open, smiling, waving, coming out of their homes and shops as we passed trough.

Other than the river itself, the landscape is all agricultural. The trees have been cut back and the fields tilled almost to the horizon. Wine industry is big in these countries and vineyard abound.

Very poor planning by the French has not allowed for any random stops and tastings of the local fruits. Very difficult to control the bike passing the wineries.

It's almost as if the bike knows we are supposed to stop.

My roommate for the last week or so has been Jean-Marie. Semi-retired international marketing executive made "lots of money, but no time to spend it."

Now, he works several months of the year, rides his bike and tours as much as possible, and spends about 3-4 months of the year volunteering with Doctors without Borders.

This seems to be a recurring theme with more than a few of the people I have met. They are retired, or semi-retired, enjoying their passion for cycling and touring, and in some way giving back, helping other people who are less fortunate.

Everyone in our group, the red group, gets along very well. We have some good riders and we all look out for each other. They have all gone out of their way to make me feel welcome and not left out.

A few riders have remarked that I am very brave to make this trip because I do not understand the language and culture.

The day after we left Paris, I had a flat tire. The mechanic swapped wheels and told me to come back tonight after dinner to change the tire.

One of our group, Marcel from Belgium, said in his limited English that he would help me. I said it was OK but he insisted.

When we were done, I thanked him as much as I could in my limited French.

He looked at me and said "Its OK, you are alone". That's the kind of people I am travelling with.

With the wind at your back,

Paul

Dispatch 3: 4-13-08

Writing from internet cafe in Bucherest, Romania. Last Sunday we arrived in Belgrade, Serbia. It was our third day in the country.

Very impressed with the people. Subotica, near the Hungarian border was a nice little town, clean, plenty of upscale shopping, and a large pedestrian walkway down the center of town.

The people have been very enthusiastic, coming out of their shops and homes to wave and cheer as we went through. About 30 kilometers out of Belgrade, we were met by about 20 members of a local cycling club. They acted as tour guides as we cycled into the capital.

Maja is an English teacher, one of her clients being Ernst & Young, was excited to talk to an American. She provided a detailed history of the capital and pointed out sights that otherwise would have gone unnoticed.

Later that night, Maja, her husband, and 5 other member of the club, came to our hotel and escorted 14 of us on a late night tour of Belgrade. Ended the evening with a drink at a local pub/cafe, complete with local music by a live band.

Monday evening, several of the members came back and took 3 of us out to dinner. Everyone else was tired. Went to the Writers Club, a restaurant where dignitaries are usually taken. Nice dinner. Wonderful people.

On our last day in Serbia, we stopped for lunch just short of the Romanian border. A group of grade-school aged children did some traditional song/dances for us. Unbelievable. I don't think the Serbian people could show any more enthusiasm. Would definitely return.

Romania is a little different. People happy to see us. Lots of waving and horn honking as we passed.

However, the poverty is very evident. No progress since their dictatorship ended in 1989. The infrastructure is crumbling. Almost everything seems to be in need of repair.

People burning their garbage on the sidewalk in front of their store, old and broken down cars that really need to be junked. Horse and wagon are common. Bicycle use is widespread, but most are single speed, held together by rust, lots of rust.

Gypsies are alive and well in Romania. Their lifestyle is quite different, living out of wagons and makeshift campsites.

They don't like having their pictures taken. Unless you pay them, of course. Outside Bucharest, about 30 members of local cycling club and 20 cyclists who had bused in from France, rode with us into the capital.

Luckily, it was Sunday so the traffic wasn't that bad. It helped that we had a politia (police) escort.

Bucharest is not a very interesting city. Some nice old architecture, but almost all of it is in need of repair and restoration. Could be a beautiful city.

My group, l'rouge, continues to be the best group. We cycle together, often the setting the pace for the rest of the groups.

Seems we're competitive. We all get along, both on the raod and socially as well. For a bunch of mostly old guys, they are fun loving, laugh a lot, and at times act like kids. Great group to hang out with. It's this kind of attitude that will get us all, all the way to Bejing. Tomorrow, its back on the road.

May the wind be at your back,

Paul

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